Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Xizhimen RIP

So for those who don't know, I spent the second half of my Junior year studying abroad in Beijing. I studied at 北京教育学院, a small school in the heart of a dirty clothing market. Sure, the occasional waft of burning shit caused occasional gagging, and the fact that I mistook a nearby kindergarten for a prison may make it seem like an unpleasant place, but the truth of the matter is I loved this place and I couldn't wait to get back to visit. Finally, after over a year of waiting, I made my triumphant return to Xizhimen... and the place I had left no longer exists... OK maybe I'm being a little over-dramatic here, but in the past year the place has had a complete facelift. I'll apologize upfront- this posting will probably only excite the former students who want to see the many changes that have taken place... buuuttt I just remembered I don't have enough readers to justify an apology. Alrighty, away we go!


OK so we'll start our tour of the new Xizhimen from the Xizhimen subway stop. The first change you'll see if these three buildings no longer have massive "for rent" signs hanging in the windows. Now, they are the proud home of CapitaRetail!


As you continue down the street, few things have changed. There's a new Subways right next to the KFC, but besides that its all the same. But wait, what the hell is that shit in the distance? Much like a homeless man ruining the serenity of a park scene, here was an eyesore cutting right across the Xizhimen landscape. Some of you might remember a random post that the Chinese built sticking up from the highway- well it turns out there was actually a point to it! Feast your eyes on upon this hideous cement coldsore! It took me three months living in Xizhimen before I discovered there was a mountain range in the distance- now with this monstrosity blocking the skyline its safe to say those mountains may never be seen again.


Anyways, as we continue towards our school, you'll notice another odd decision by the Chinese- now, less than 500 feet away from the old KFC, is a brand new one! It looks like KFC is taking a page out of the Starbucks business book and deciding to plant a new restaurant on every block. Seriously though, is business really booming to justify the two stores? Its not like this is a better location either. On a side note, despite the fact that Starbucks closed something like 30,000 stores this past year, they are planning to expand in China. They also have a really good mango frappachino for only 28 kuai...


So a familiar scene back in the day was piles and piles of bags that looked eerily like they were filled with bodies, but were actually filled with cheap clothing. People would just be lying on the spit-dotted street with their bodies laid out on the sidewalk, and it would be a real pain to walk through that area. Well thanks to the governments move to make Beijing presentable for the Olympics, this area is now paved clear and a mall is actually starting to develop here. There are even easily accessible trashcans! Classy!


OK we've finally made it to the street 北京教育学院 is located on, and here is where all personality has been lost. Back last year, this place was filled with small convenience stores (all selling the same thing) and cheap but pretty tasty restaurants. We used to wonder how these stores could all stay in business if they sold the same things... well the answer is they don't all stay in business because they're all gone. Thats right, pretty much every one of these stores has been replaced by more cheap ass clothing outlets. The restaurant where I bought baozi for breakfast everyday? Gone. The store that sold cheap draft beers during the summer? Gone. The place with the wife-abusing storekeep? Gone. The place that sold Ji Dan Guan Bing? Gone. The good news? The Green Store with our favorite chubby owner managed to survive the changes and has now got a monopoly on the area.


OK thats all I'm going to write for today. Check back in a few days and I'll post an update on 北京教育学院 and the fate of my very favorite jiaozi restaurant!

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